Hawawshi is one of Cairo’s great handheld meals: minced beef mixed with onion, green pepper and warm spices, packed into baladi bread and baked until the outside turns crisp and the filling stays juicy. It is part sandwich, part meat pie — and best eaten straight from the oven.

Where to try it

Hawawshi El-Refaie in Downtown is a strong address to seek out. The original shop is small and known for takeaway, so expect a quick counter stop rather than a long sit-down meal.

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Order it fresh and hot. A little tahini, pickles or a sharp salad makes a good contrast to the rich filling.